Ultimate Guide to Travel Rough and Untamed Tsavo West, Kenya

Tsavo National Park – consisting of Tsavo West and Tsavo East, is the largest wildlife park in Kenya and is located in the southeast of the country, about 200 km from Mombasa. We visited Tsavo West, and due to its dense vegetation, it’s a bit harder to spot wildlife, but despite that, it was my favorite National Park because of its stunning landscapes. I even dare to say that this might be the most beautiful National Park in Kenya, and moreover, it’s still very quiet in terms of tourism. Imagine the rolling hills illuminated by the soft morning light, impressive rock formations, vast savannas, black lava fields undulating across the landscape like petrified waves, and volcanic cones rising like silent guardians of a forgotten time. Welcome to Tsavo West National Park – a rugged, pure wilderness where nature writes its own story.

Tsavo West VS Tsavo East: which Park to Choose?

Tsavo West and Tsavo East are separated by the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, and although they border each other, they feel completely different. Tsavo West is more mountainous, greener, and more mysterious, with volcanic landscapes, natural springs, and the iconic Mzima Springs. East, on the other hand, is drier, more open, and more spacious – perfect for those who love vast plains and large herds of elephants that turn red from the dust. In Tsavo East, you experience that true African feeling and have a much greater chance of spotting animals. Ideally, you visit both parks, as they are truly completely different. I recommend staying at least one night in both parks. For us, the choice ultimately fell on Tsavo West. It’s so different from the other parks in Kenya: a bit more rugged and varied.

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Tsavo West With or Without a Tour?

Are you doing an independent road trip through Kenya? Then a rental car is a good option! However, we recommend going with a guide. Due to the dense vegetation in Tsavo West National Park, it is particularly difficult to spot wildlife. Experienced guides have a trained eye, so you have a much greater chance of spotting wild animals. We also found it very pleasant to be able to enjoy the beautiful landscapes in a comfortable jeep, without having to drive ourselves. This tour through Kenya was in collaboration with Africa Safari. Everything was perfectly planned and taken care of!

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The most Beautiful Sights in Tsavo West

#1 Spot Dik-diks: the Smallest Antelope in the World

Tsavo West is the place to be to spot the cutest animal of the Savannah: the dik-dik! With its large eyes, small stature, and wobbly nose, this tiny antelope looks like it just stepped out of an animated film. They blend completely into the landscape and are so fast and quiet that you would almost miss them. It was amazing to see these animals in real life.

Cute fact: once they have found their true mate, dik-diks stay with their partner for the rest of their lives. After the death of their partner, they remain alone.

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#2 Visit the Sheldrick Falls

The Sheldricks waterfall plunges 21 meters into a natural pool, surrounded by lush vegetation. A welcome refreshment after a hot day under the African sun. We did not visit the waterfall ourselves due to lack of time, but if you have the time, this is a pleasant spot to relax for a bit.

#3 Admire the Chyulu Hills

The Chyulu Hills, with their rolling green hills and volcanic origin, offer breathtaking views of the landscape. The hills covered with grassland and forest form a beautiful contrast with the dry surrounding savanna. A perfect place for hikers and nature lovers to experience the tranquility and beauty of Kenya.

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#4 Spot Hippos and Crocodiles at Mzima Springs

Mzima Springs is an oasis of life in the dry landscape of Tsavo West. Here, crystal-clear water bubbles up from underground springs, originating from the Chyulu Hills, providing a home for hippos and crocodiles. From the underwater viewing hide, you can observe these animals and numerous fish. There is a beautiful walking trail, and we also saw many monkeys and beautiful birds there.

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#5 Drive through the Lava Flow

The Shetani Lava Flow is an impressive remnant of a volcanic eruption from about 500 years ago. The black, solidified lava landscape stretches for several kilometers and feels almost otherworldly.

#6 Spotting Black Rhinos at Ngulia Sanctuary

What makes Tsavo West even more special? The Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary. This safe haven was established to protect the critically endangered black rhino. In the 1940s, an estimated 20,000 of these impressive animals roamed the park. But by 1989, due to intense poaching, barely twenty remained… Yes, that’s correct: TWENTY! Thanks to the efforts of the sanctuary, that tide has fortunately turned. Today, about eighty black rhinos live in Tsavo West again – a hopeful reminder that nature conservation truly makes a difference.

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Where to Stay in Tsavo West?

We stayed one night at the luxurious Severin Safari Camp. What makes Severin so special is the complete openness of the camp. There are no fences, no barriers. Here, wildlife is free to roam. At night, you lie in your comfortable tent and listen to the rustling of branches, playing monkeys, the soft splash of a crocodile sliding into the water near your tent, or the deep roar of a lion in the distance. Everything around you breathes pure Africa.

But it’s also enjoyable during the day. Severin has a beautiful swimming pool where you can relax, with incredible views of the landscape where animals regularly pass by. Those looking for some extra relaxation can get a massage or even a workout in the gym (for those who aren’t sweating enough under the African sun).

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And then there’s the culinary aspect: each day begins with an extensive breakfast buffet, followed by a refined three-course lunch and a four-course dinner in the atmospheric restaurant. The dishes are a wonderful mix of local ingredients and international influences – fresh, full of taste, and prepared with care.

Severin is truly a pure delight. Luxury and nature go hand in hand here, without ever feeling disconnected from the surroundings. We deeply regretted not staying another night. So if you ever get the chance: stay longer. You will thank yourself for it.

Book Your Stay at Severin Safari Camp Here

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